DECEMBER 2003
On the 5th part of our grand tour of Scotland, Sarah Mack visited Oban. Just a 2 1/2 hour drive from Glasgow, Oban has been a favourite with tourists since Victorian times, when Queen Victoria pronounced it one of the finest spots she had ever seen. It's the recognized jumping off spot for most people who want to visit the isles but Sarah decided to stay put and find out what Oban itself had to offer.
Sarah stayed at the newly opened Dun na mara
Guesthouse which is a bit different to the accommodation you might expect on the west coast of Scotland. With luxurious, contemporary interiors, it has a level of comfort you'd expect from a city hotel. All rooms are en suite with power showers and have fabulous sea views. They also have CD and DVD players in each room.
Not wanting to do anything on an empty stomach, Sarah first went searching for a bite to eat. As you would expect, the Waterfront Restaurant
is down by the pier. It occupies the first floor of a former 1960s seaman's mission and the food is highly recommended. It was named Scottish restaurant of the year in 2002. Sarah tried one of their specialities - roast rhubarb with Irn Bru Ice cream! Waterfront Restaurant Tel: 01631 563110
www.waterfront-restaurant.co.uk
For adrenalin junkies, Tralee Rally Karting
is just a 5 minute drive from Oban town centre. They offer off road rally karting for all the family 7 - 70 years old! Junior and senior karts are available. Helmets and overalls provided. The cost of a karting session is from £6 for adults and £4 for children. Call 01631 720297 for seasonal opening times.
In 1792 the Clachan Bridge
was built to join the Isle of Seil to the mainland and it's just high enough to let boats pass under. For centuries it's been known as the only bridge across the Atlantic, hence it's more common name the Atlantic Bridge. After crossing the bridge Sarah stopped off at the nearby Tigh an Truish Inn,
which means House of Trousers. It got its name during the time of the Jacobite rebellion when the kilt was forbidden. Soldiers would stop off here to change out of their kilts and into their trousers before going onto the mainland.
Sarah took a high speed RIB (Rigid Inflatable Boat) from the small village of Easdale to the Garvellach islands or as they are known locally the Holy Isles
. Sea Fari Adventures is the only tour operator with written permission from the landowner to take passengers onto Eilean Namoibh which is the home of the earliest Christian site in Scotland. It's where St Brendan and St Columba landed to bring Christianity to Scotland 21 years before St Columba arrived on Iona. Due to its remoteness the ruins are very well preserved. The site is now in the care of Historic Scotland and it's pretty incredible just wandering around and imagining what life was like here over 1500 years ago. Sarah's 3 hour tour of the Garvellach Islands costs from £35 for adults and £25 for children. Family tickets from £105. Includes a one hour stop on the Holy Isle. Sea Fari Adventures Tel: 01852 300003 www.seafari.co.uk
Historic Scotland www.historic-scotland.gov.uk
Oban has a fairly famous set of ruins of its own. McCaig's Folly was built by a local banker, unsurprisingly called McCaig in 1897. The aim was to provide work for the local stonemasons and to provide a lasting monument to the McCaig family. His intention was to complete it with a large tower placed in the middle and statues of the family, but they never materialized. Construction took place in the winter months only, from 1895 until the time of his death in 1902. Today it's a great place for walking, taking in the views of the surrounding islands of Mull and Lismore and for photography.
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